Basic Care

Housing Leopard Geckos
An adult leopard gecko needs about as much space as a 10 gallon aquarium or more. You can house several females together, so long as you watch to make sure there is no bullying, but males are more territorial and need to be housed alone (other than for breeding). Your gecko will need a dry hide place and a moist hide place. We use a small cardboard box as our dry hide place and a small sterlite container with a hole cut in the side for the moist hide place. The floor of the moist hide place is filled with vermiculite and a little water. It's humid enough in there that a little condensation can be seen on the walls. Our geckos spend a lot of time in there, and the moisture helps them with shedding.
Your gecko will need a small dish for water, a dish for food, and a small dish for the calcium supplement. The edges need to be shallow enough that the gecko can get to the water/food. For the calcium supplement, the cap off a gallon milk jug works great! They will eat little bits of it from time to time, so you want to make sure it's always available. Water should be changed frequently to make sure it's clean.
Your gecko's home will also need a heat source. Heat rocks are not a good choice because they don't raise the overall temperature of the cage and they may cause burns to the gecko's skin. Heat tape underneath the cage or an overhead lamp can provide a good source. Leos don't really need a lot of light, so we use a 40 watt red light in a clamp lamp reflector hood. Directly beneath the lamp it stays about 88 degrees, and the furthest part of the cage is about 72. This allows the geckos to choose what temperature is most comfortable for them.
For cage substrate, newspaper or paper towels are easy to clean and inexpensive options. Young geckos can eat cage substrate, causing impaction and death, so it isn't recommended to try fancy substrates until your gecko is at least 6 inches long. Once your gecko is at least this size, you can try a pretty sand substrate like calci-sand (which doubles as a calcium supplement) or you can go for a dirt and pebble natural-type look. Be sure to use topsoil and not potting soil if you choose to use soil, because potting soil typically has a lot of chemicals in it.

Feeding
Leopard geckos eat live prey. Crickets, mealworms, and superworms are the two most commonly reported feeds, although others report that they supplement with wax worms, silk worms, or even pinkie mice. Some people will swear by crickets or by mealworms, but there isn't any research showing that one is better than the other. We keep a dish of mealworms available at all times and we feed crickets once a day, since we noticed that some prefer the mealies and some prefer the crickets. You should limit crickets to a 15 minute feeding period, and remove any that are left at the end of the period. They tend to harass the geckos if left in the tank. About 3 to 5 crickets per gecko is a good amount to try feeding. Prey items should be dusted with calcium powder and vitamin powder

Shedding
Leopard geckos will shed their skin periodically. Access to a moist hide box helps them in this process. They will start to look dull, then will look like they are covered in a papery membrane. After a while, they will peel it off with their teeth and eat the shed. They will be at their brightest after a shed!

Tail Loss
Never grab a leopard gecko by the tail! As a protective mechanism, leos will lose their tail if grabbed, or even if they just feel really threatened. New tails will regrow, but often aren't as pretty as the original. Tail loss can also occur during intraspecies conflict, so some choose to house their geckos separately to avoid the risk. Be sure to give plenty of food and extra calcium if you have a gecko who is regrowing his or her tail.

Breeding
As with any species, you want to make sure that you have healthy adult animals to begin with! Next, you will want to make sure that you have a market lined up for babies. Never breed more animals than you can house if they don't sell. Breeding animals should always be based on a love of the animal because the profit margin generally isn't high enough to make it worth the money alone. With leopard geckos, you have to be prepared to incubate the eggs and to watch them carefully for about 2 months, to make sure they don't get too moist or to dry, or too hot or too cold. You will also need to keep careful records on your animals. The best source of information on breeding is in the book The Leopard Gecko Manual by Vosjoli, Viets, Tremper, & Klingenberger. I highly recommend it as the best all around book on leopard gecko care that I've seen. You can purchase it at Amazon.com. Another great resource is the Leopard Gecko Forum at kingsnake.com.